The easiest way to propagate ferns is by dividing a large healthy clump of ferns. This can be done in autumn or in early spring.

Ferns grow from rhizomes that are flat, horizontal, slightly woody masses usually just beneath the surface of the soil. In some species, the rhizome may be vertical and will produce a crown from which the stems of the ferns emerge. In either case, the rhizome is the foundation from which the roots will grow downward from underneath, while the stems will grow upward from the top. By cutting this rhizome, and separating the clump of ferns, it is possible to obtain double or triple the fern mass and in just a few weeks they should all be healthy adult ferns. This can be done with ferns growing outdoors or with potted ferns. Plant the new clump of ferns in the same kind of soil and light/shade conditions in which it was previously growing with the rhizome just below the surface of the soil. As this new fern grows, it may be divided again in one or two years. The advantage of propagating ferns in this manner is that, with ease, you can get larger ferns in a shorter period of time. The disadvantage is that you are limited by the number of new ferns that can be propagated at one time.

A vegetative method of propagating ferns from those species that send out the long tentacle-like runners, is to leave these runners attached to the parent plant and lay them into a tray of a growing medium of peat moss and perlite or vermiculite. Keep this growing medium damp but not soggy. New ferns will grow at the ends or, in some cases, along the length of the runners. Eventually the new ferns begin to grow and the runners will wither and die away. As in propagation by division, these ferns will mature faster than those propagated from spores.

Ferns have neither flowers nor seeds. They produce new ferns at their sides from the rhizome. They also produce new ferns from spores which drop off of the undersides of the fronds. These spores can be seen arranged in clusters called sori on the underneath side of the leafy fronds. These spores can be collected and with the techniques that will be explained next, it is possible to obtain hundreds of new ferns. The advantage of the propagation from spores is that you can obtain such a large lumber of new ferns; the disadvantage is that it will take at least two years to have these ferns grow to a medium size and longer to reach a mature size.

If the spores are well developed in their cases (sori) and ready to fall off of the underneath side of the leafy fronds, tie a clear plastic bag over a large healthy frond and shake or tap the frond until the spores fall into the bag. Some of the spores will cling to the fronds. Take the frond in hand and gently rub the foliage with thumb and fore finger to loosen the spores. If the spores do not loosen from the frond, check with a magnifying glass to see if the caes are empty or if the spores are mature. The spores may not have developed yet. Spores in most species will be a dark red/brown or black when they are fully mature. In some species the color may be a golden yellow. In all species they will be swollen and the spore case (sporangium) will begin to wither away so that the spores can be released.

Another way to collect the spores is to cut off the entire frond at the stem. Take a sheet of standard 8 1/2 x 11 typing paper or copy paper and fold in half lengthwise. Place the frond with the spores still attached into the folded sheet of paper and store it in a book. So that you don't forget which book you used to file the frond, you can look up Ferns in a dictionary or encyclopedia and place the frond there. Keep the book vertical so that the spores will not get crushed as might be the case if the book were to lie flat with more books on top. At least one week later, the frond will dry out and the spores will be released for germination. You will know right where to look for the spores when it is time to propagate them.

Use a porous 2 inch x 8 inch x 16 inch concrete patio block or a couple of porous bricks (do not use glazed fireplace bricks). Boil the patio block or bricks in an oven pan on top of the stove for 20 minutes to sterilize the surfaces. Boil a growing medium of a mixture of peat moss and perlite or vermiculite, about half and half, for a few minutes and allow it to cool. If you are sure the peat moss is sterile, this step is not necessary.

Another way to sterilize the growing medium is to mix it with enough water to form a consistency similar to a cake mix. Place the medium into a plastic grocery bag. Place this bag into a fairly deep microwave dish and cook in the microwave oven for 2 or 3 minutes. Remove from microwave oven.

Place the patio blocks or bricks into a nursery tray or an old pan and pour in water to a depth of 1 inch. Spread a layer of about 1/4 inch of the cooled sterile peat moss/growing medium over the top surface of the patio block or bricks. Gently tap the plastic bag containing the spores over the layer of peat moss. Tie a larger clear plastic bag, or place a sheet of glass over the tray or pan and place the unit in a dark location for a day or two before moving to a location that gets plenty of light.

A simpler method also works just as well: Any sterile flat container may be used for propagating ferns. Grocery stores and Supermarkets use molded clear plastic containers for salads, pastries and pies that work very well for propagating spores and seeds. Usually these containers have a clear plastic top that either fits perfectly over the bottom tray or in many cases, the top is folded or hinged to the bottom portion of the tray. These containers can be obtained for free when you purchase the salad or pastry and can be used over and over. Rather than boiling the container, mix 1 part bleach to 9 parts water and wash the container to be used.

After the container has dried, fill it with a planting medium. Use a mixture of about 1/2 peat moss and 1/2 perlite or vermiculite which is a very good medium for propagating ferns. It is important to keep the planting medium damp and covered with clear plastic or glass. Do not allow mold to form on the planting medium or the fern starts will be lost. Do not allow the planting medium to become soggy nor too dry. Mist the surface every couple of days or as needed. Condensation on the underneath side of the plastic or glass is likely to cause mold to form. Taking the cover off daily, to remove the moisture from the underneath side will help prevent the problem of mold. Put the container in a dark location for a day or two. Keep the container covered and move to an area that gets light such as next to a window, or use fluorescent lights or grow lights. In about 2 or 3 weeks, young ferns will start to grow.

In a few weeks, the tiny new clumps of ferns will be ready to transplant to individual containers. These plants will be very delicate at this stage and much care is advised in handling them. The use of tweezers and a knife will make this job somewhat easier. After several months of growth the little ferns will be ready for another thinning out into larger individual containers. Always use sterile containers and tools.

 The use of a time-release high-nitrogen fertilizer will help in the development of the new ferns. Consult your local nurseryman. The amount of fertilizer needed will depend on the number of spores you have planted.

As the ferns begin to develop, the cover can gradually be lifted for a few hours each day. When they are large enough to transplant again in clumps of 2 or 3 ferns each into a larger container, the cover will not be needed. They will be about 25% of their mature size after 12 months. The ferns may be left in clumps or they may eventually be divided into single ferns and transplanted again as they continue to mature. The use of the high-nitrogen fertilizer may be continued but follow dosage directions from your nurseryman or the label very carefully. It is also wise to consult your local nursery for products that will keep your ferns disease and pest free.

Pacific Northwest

Adiantum aleuticum, Western Maidenhair Fern

Blechnum penna-marina, Little Hard Fern

Blechnum spicant, Deer Fern

Dryopteris affinis, Golden-Scaled Male Fern

Dryopteris dilatata, Broad Wood Fern

Dryopteris erythrosora, Autumn Fern

Osmunda regalis, Royal Fern

Polystichum munitum, Western Sword Fern

Polystichum polyblepharum, Tassel Fern

Polystichum setiferum, Soft Shield Fern

California & West Coast

Adiantum pedatum, Maidenhair Fern

Athyrium filix-femina, Lady Fern

Blechnum spicant, Deer Fern

Dryopteris dilatata, Broad Wood Fern

Dryopteris erythrosora, Autumn Fern

Pentagramma trangularis, Goldback Fern

Polypodium scouleri , Leathery Fern

Polystichum munitum, Western Sword Fern

Polystichum polyblepharum, Tassel Fern

Woodwardia fimbriata, Giant Chain Fern

Rocky Mountain & Great Basin Region

Adiantum pedatum, Maidenhair Fern

Asplenium trichomanes, Maidenhair Spleenwort

Athyrium filix-femina cyclosorum, Western Lady Fern

Athyrium niponicum, Japanese Painted Fern

Cystopteris fragilis, Fragile Fern

Dryopteris filix-mas, Male Fern

Dryopteris marginalis, Marginal Wood Fern

Matteuccia struthiopteris, Ostrich Plume Fern

Polystichum aculeatum, Hard Shield Fern

Polystichum andersonii, Anderson's Holly Fern

Northern Great Plains, Upper Midwest, Great Lakes Region

Adiantum pedatum, Maidenhair Fern

Athyrium niponicum, Japanese Painted Fern

Diplazium pycnocarpon, Glade Fern

Dryopteris filix-mas, Male Fern

Dryopteris marginalils, Marginal Wood Fern

Matteuccia struthiopteris, Ostrich Plume Fern

Osmunda claytoniana, Interrupted Fern

Phegopteris connectilis, Northern Beech Fern

Polystichum acrostichoides, Christmas Fern

Southern Great Plains, Texas & Louisiana

Adiantum capillus-veneris, Southern Maidenhair Fern

Cyrtomium falcatum, Holly Fern

Dryopteris erythrosora, Autumn Fern

Dryopteris Iudoviciana, Southern Wood Fern

Onoclea sensibilis, Sensitive Fern

Osmunda regalis, Royal Fern

Polystichum acrostichoides, Christmas Fern

Polystichum polyblepharum, Tassel Fern

Polystichum tsus-simense, Korean Rock Fern

Thelypteris kunthii, River Fern

Southeast Region

Athyrium filix-femina, Lady Fern

Dryopteris erythrosora, Autumn Fern

Dryopteris Iudoviciana, Southern Wood Fern

Osmunda cinnamomea, Cinnamon Fern

Osmunda regalis, Royal Fern

Phegopteris hexagonopters, Southern Beech Fern

Polypodium verginianum, Rock Fern

Polystichum acrostichoides, Christmas Fern

Thelypteris kunthii, River Fern

Woodwardia areolata, Netted Chain Fern

Northeast Region

Adiantum pedatum, Maidenhair Fern

Athyrium filix-femina, Lady Fern

Dryopteris filix-mas, Male Fern

Dryopteris goldiana, Goldie's Fern

Gymnocarpium dryopteris, Oak Fern

Matteuccia struthiopteris, Ostrich Plume Fern

Osmunda cinnamomea, Cinnamon Fern

Phegopteris connectilis, Northern Beech Fern

Polystichum acrostichoides, Christmas Fern

Thelypteris noceboracensis, New York Fern

Subtropical Florida

Blechuum serrulatum, Swamp Water Fern

Cyrtomium falcatum, Holly Fern

Dennstaedtia bipinnata, Cuplet Fern

Dicksonia antarctica, Soft Tree Fern

Dryopteris erythrosora, Autumn Fern

Macrothelypteris torresiana, Mariana Maiden Fern

Osmunda cinnamomea, Cinnamon Fern

Osmunda regalis, Royal Fern

Sphaeropteris cooperi, Lacy Tree Fern

Thelypteris kunthii, Southern Maiden Fern

Some sources in various regions of the U.S.A. for obtaining Ferns

Eco Gardens
P.O. Box 1227
Decatur, GA 30031
(404) 294-6468

Foliage Gardens
2003 - 128th Avenue S.E.
Bellevue, WA 98005
(206) 747-2998

Glasshouse Works
P.O. Box 97
Church Street
Stewart, OH 44041
(614) 662-2142

Jerry Horne - Rare Plants
10195 S.W. 70th Street
Miami, FL 33173
(305) 270-1235

Neon Palm Nursery
3525 Stony Point Road
Santa Rosa, CA 95407
(707) 585-8100

Varga's Nursery
2631 Pickertown Road
Warrington, PA 18976
(215) 343-0646

Brusse Gardens
13579 10th Street N.W.
Cokato, MN 55321-9426
(612) 286-2654

Conley's Garden Center
145 Townsend Avenue
Boothbay Harbor, ME 04538
(207) 633-5020

Crownsville Nursery
P.O. Box 797
Crownsville, MD 21032
(410) 923-2212

Fancy Fronds
1911 - 4th Avenue West
Seattle, WA 98119
(206) 284-5332

Timothy D. Field Ferns & Wildflowers
395 Newington Road
Newington, NH 03801
(603) 436-0457

Gardens of the Blue Ridge
P.O. Box 10
US 221 North
Pineola, NC 28662
(704) 733-2417

Hortico, Inc.
723 Robson Road, RR 1
Waterdown, On, Canada L0R 2H1
(416) 689-6984

Kline Nursery Co.
P.O. Box 23161
Tigard, OR 97281-3161
(503)244-3910

Native Gardens
5737 Fisher Lane
Greenback, TN 37742
(615) 856-3550

Nature's Garden
40611 Highway 226
Scio, OR 97374-9351

Orchid Gardens
2232 - 139th Avenue N.W.
Andover, MN 55744

Pinky's Plants
P.O. Box 126
442 G Street
Pawnee City, NE 68420
(800) 94-PINKY

The Propagator's Private Stock
8805 Kemman Road
Hebron, IL 60034

Rainforest Gardens
13139 - 224th Street, RR 2
Maple Ridge, BC, Canada V2X 7E7 (604) 467-4218

Robyn's Nest Nursery
7802 N.E. 63rd Street
Vancouver, WA 98662
(206) 256-7399

Shady Oaks Nursery
112 10th Avenue S.E.
Waseca, MN 56093
(507) 835-8772

Shiskiyou Rare Plant Nursery
2825 Cummings Road
Medford, OR 97501
(503) 772-6846

Wild Earth Native Plant Nursery
49 Mead Avenue
Wright DeBow Road (Jackson)
Freehold, NJ 07728
(908) 780-5661

Woodlanders, Inc.
1128 Colleton Avenue
Alken, SC 29801
(803) 648-7522

Various nurseries have begun specializing in ferns and some nurseries may change names or close up shop. Addresses may change as well as phone numbers. If you find that any listings above are no longer correct, please let me know.