Propagating from cuttings is the method of propagation in which a section of stem, leaf or root is cut from a parent plant and nurtured into a new plant. A sharp knife or razor blade must be used and cuttings should always be made at an angle. Never use dull tools

or scissors because of likely damage to the plants. Cut ends of the cuttings should be dipped into a rooting powder and/or anti fungus powder available at garden centers and nurseries.

Herbaceous Cuttings ­ are cut from the softer tissue or new woody growth of plants such as the tropical houseplants. Cuttings can be taken from new growth at any time during their growing season. Water the parent plant about 1 hour before taking cuttings. Avoid taking cuttings during hot time of the day, early morning or late afternoon is best. Insert cut stem into rooting powder and then insert about one inch deep into a mixture of perlite and vermiculite (about half and half). Avoid direct sunlight, drafts and temperatures below 70°F. Temperatures of 75°F to 80°F are likely to produce the best results when propagating from cuttings, seeds or any other method of propagation. Propagation from cuttings will require a little less light than is required for propagating from seed. Soil should be kept moist but not soggy. Mist the cuttings daily. Do not allow the leaves to dry out, but do not allow the soil to get too wet.

Softwood or Greenwood Cuttings ­ are taken from new growth, usually in mid to late spring or early summer before the wood has matured. This is one of the easiest methods for propagating from cuttings and is possible for so many kinds of plants including a wide variety of trees and shrubs such as evergreens, especially the broad-leafed variety, and deciduous trees. Follow the same procedures as for the Herbaceous cuttings above with the exception of growing medium. Different kinds of plants will respond differently to the various growing media. All purpose river sand and peat moss can be used, but with more sand at the upper level and peat moss at the lower level. All purpose river sand and vermiculite works well. Vermiculite and perlite works very well for a wide variety of plants. Each of the preceding mixtures are of ratios of half and half. Another mixture that is worth trying for broad leaf evergreens such as azaleas and rhododendron is 1/3 all purpose river sand, 1/3 perlite and a 1/3 mix of peat moss and vermiculite in equal amounts in the bottom layer.

Semi-hardwood Cuttings ­ Propagation is similar to that as for Softwood propagation except that cuttings are taken from new growth in late summer after stems have matured somewhat, but are not yet fully mature. The length of the cuttings may be 6 to 12 inches or even more with some species. Follow same propagation procedures as for softwood cuttings.

Hardwood Cuttings ­ These cuttings are taken in late fall through mid winter when the wood is dormant. Several cuttings can be taken from a single stem. Cut 6 to 12 inch pieces from the stems at angles. Cut the upper end of the piece just above a bud. It is important to keep track of which end is up. Tie them in bundles with a note stating date and species, include an arrow pointing in the upward direction in which the stems were growing. 

Bury the bundles of stems (cuttings) in a container of damp sand or better yet, damp vermiculite. place this container in a cellar, garage, basement or crawl space under the house for the remainder of the winter. They must remain cool but should not be allowed to freeze. Do not allow this container to completely dry out keep it slightly moistened, but do not let in get soggy or the cuttings will rot. As spring approaches and the temperature begins to get a little warmer the bottom end   ends of the cuttings will have formed a callus.

After danger of frost has passed in late April or May, depending on your climate zone, these cuttings can be planted outdoors in small containers of a rich potting soil, or in a mixture of sand and peat moss; perlite and vermiculite; or perlite, peat moss and vermiculite in approximately equal quantities of any of those options.

 The downward ends of the stems go into the soil, leaving 2 or 3 buds above the soil level. Additional protection should be offered, especially in the north. A plastic or burlap cover will protect the cuttings from too much sunlight and wind.

These cuttings should be misted daily to keep the buds and newly forming foliage from drying out and to keep the soil or growing medium moist but not soggy. Watering is especially important during dry periods. By late spring they should have taken root and can be planted directly into the garden or in larger pots if they are to be sold.

Grapes and other vines, willows cotoneaster, shrub roses, hydrangea and some of the evergreens can be started from hardwood cuttings.

Many varieties of plants, either woody or herbaceous, can be started by cutting off a healthy leaf at the stem. The cut stem of the leaf is dipped into the rooting powder and inserted into the growing medium of sand and vermiculite or vermiculite and perlite mixture. New plants grow from the stem as the original leaf withers away. African Violets, Jade Plants, some water lilies, and broad leafed succulents are among the many species that can be propagated in this way.

The long, broad, blade-like leaves of Sanseveria can be cut about one inch from the top of the leaf and inserted upright, cut end down, into the growing medium to obtain new starts of this plant.

This method of getting new plant starts is a little more difficult than the previous methods of taking cuttings. The same basic principles apply here but you are going to be taking cuttings directly from the root of the parent plant instead of a leaf, stem or branch. As the case with any cutting, you need to keep track of which end goes up. If you are cutting 1 1/2 inch to 2 1/2 inch pieces of root, they will need to be planted with the root ends downward, so that the plant can continue to grow in its upward orientation.

Some of the perennials and ground covers with fine roots are the exceptions. When dealing with crown vetch, sea holly, flowering spurge, phlox, gaillardia, and verbascum ­ cut 1 to 2 inch pieces of root and scatter them over a growing medium of sand and peat moss. Cover with about 1/2 inch of sand or perlite and keep the soil warm, and moist, but never soggy.

Plants that have fleshy or rubbery roots must be cut at the lower ends of the parent stock in lengths of 1 3/4 to 3 inches . The cut ends do not need to be cut at angles. Plant vertically with the cut ends up. About 1/4 inch of the root should stick up above the surface with the remaining 1 1/2 inches to 2 1/2 inches below the surface of the growing medium. Plants of this type include: Peonies, baby's breath, rhubarb, and acanthus.

Woody trees, shrubs and various types of berry plants can be propagated from root cuttings. The pieces of root should be 3 to 6 inches long and should be planted vertically with the root tops about 1 or 1 1/2 inches below the surface of the growing medium.

This method of cutting is ideal for taking softwood or semi-hardwood specimens from such woody plants as blueberry, apple, cherry, plum, pear, azalea, rhododendron and many kinds of evergreens. It is an ideal method for getting starts for bonsai. The air-callused cutting is done in two stages:

The first stage is best done in early spring. Find a branch consisting of last year's growth that is no larger in diameter than your little finger. About 8 or 9 inches from the top of this stem, or branch, carefully cut a 1/2 inch wide piece of bark. Be careful not to cut into the wood. Remove this piece of bark. Using a small brush, paint a thin coat of a mixture of half and half rooting powder and Captan (available at nurseries). Also stir in a little confectioner's sugar and B-Nine (also available at nurseries) to the mixture.

After this coating has been applied, apply some sphagnum or Kys-Kube from the nursery to the area. Using some clear plastic, wrap the area carefully to make it moisture proof. Use plastic electrical tape to secure the clear plastic into place around the cut. Then cover all with aluminum foil to keep the sun light from reaching the area.

The second stage is to be done about 6 or 8 weeks later after a callus has formed where the bark was removed. Clip off the branch about 1/2 inch or less down from the callus and unwrap the area. Dip the cut end in rooting powder and plant it in a mixture of damp perlite and vermiculite. Mist the plant frequently. Keep the soil warm and moist but not soggy. As the case with all young cuttings, keep it out of direct sunlight.

Treat your new cuttings as if they were little babies, because that is what they are. If they are moved outdoors in spring or summer, they need protection from direct sunlight , wind and rain. They should remain slightly moist and still should not be allowed to get soggy. They need to be protected from sudden and drastic temperature changes. Use a hotbed, cold frame or build a small tent out of plastic or burlap to house the young cuttings. They need air circulation, so be sure that your structure is not completely enclosed or the cuttings will overheat, wilt and die. Continue misting frequently. After a few months of growth they will become more hardy and can be repotted or planted in the garden.

Always keep tools and containers as sterile as possible when propagating plants by any method to insure that disease-causing organisms do not attack and ruin your efforts. When using old flats and pots, sterilize them with a bleach and water solution of about 1 or 2 parts bleach to 8 or 9 pars water.

When using perlite or vermiculite, it is safe to assume that they are sterile. When using all purpose river sand and peat moss with your growing medium, you would be safer not to assume that they are sterile. These substances usually are safe but can be boiled to make sure that they are sterile. Peat moss and all purpose river sand may or may not be free of organisms.

Do not use scissors or dull tools of any kind to take cuttings. Always use a sharp knife, x-acto knife or razor blade to obtain the cleanest cut.

Use a pencil to make a whole in the growing medium where the new cutting is to be planted, rather than just forcing the cutting into the soil.

A much higher percentage of your cuttings will be successful if you use a good rooting powder available at nurseries. There may be several options available. Ask your nurseryman which is the best option for the plants you are propagating.

Humidity and constant warm temperature are important elements in propagating plants. If propagation of plants is done on a large scale, the use of greenhouses, automatic misting systems and soil cables for regulating heat will assure the grower of much higher success rates.

Young cuttings cannot tolerate direct sunlight, heavy wind, rain, and sudden, drastic temperature changes. Protection from these elements is very important.

Where to cut: Find a leaf node (the bump at the base of a leaf) within the green area of a new stem, about 3 or 4 inches from end of stem and cut at that point. Strip off lower leaves and dip into rooting hormone powder. Plant in small container.

You can purchase a seed-starter kit, complete with clear plastic cover to start seeds or cuttings for around $15 - $18. You can rig up your own kit using a standard 10/20 nursery tray (or flat), sterile potting soil and a clear plastic bag. Over 100 plants of the woody stemmed varieties can be started from cuttings and grown in the light of a single window. After roots have formed, and plants have grown fairly hardy, place them into large containers of sterile potting soil. This is the best method I know of to obtain the greatest number of plants at the lowest cost.

Do not use homemade compost or garden soil for propagating new plants because such growing media is likely to contain organisms that will attack the newly forming roots. The most frequent problems in propagating plants are root rot ­ too much water, drying out ­ not enough mist or humidity the young foliage, and finally disease ­ non-sterile conditions.